FACT: The National Retail Federation says that “gift cards and cash are going to remain the most popular gifts for graduates this June”.

FACT: Graduates aren’t just from colleges and high schools. According to a NPD, a marketing research group, “65% of girls between the ages of 10-13 (middle and junior high girls) wear fragrance”.

Beauty News has put together the ultimate “˜it’ list of fragrances for grads of various ages. They may need the cash. But why not add a little dash?

TWEENS: Most teen girls love anything sweet, girly and a “˜cool’ bottle helps. Tweens can be brand conscious, and are environmentally conscious as well. Our top picks:

Ralph Lauren Ralph Rocks ““ This fruity floral really “˜rocks’.
LAVANILA Vanilla Grapefruit – Effervescent and 100% natural ingredients; doesn’t smell like a cookie.

HIGH SCHOOL GRADS:
For the Girls, less sweet and more flowers; they might appreciate higher end brand names as well:

TOMMY GIRL By TOMMY HILFIGER – Created by Calice Becker, one of the best noses in the industry, this is one of the best fragrances for any age. An effervescent floral she’ll never tire of.

Emilio Pucci ‘Vivara’ Eau de Parfum – The retro-pattern bottle contains a sparkling green floral fragrance.

For the guys: Keep it light and only one or two squirts, please.

CLEAN Men – Smells like you just showered. That’s a good thing!
Issey Miyake L’Eau d’Issey Summer Pour Homme ““ Refreshing and light, with a hint of spice.

COLLEGE GRADS – And you thought school was tough? Welcome to real life. Every college grad needs a fragrance that is perfect for every occasion”¦whether it’s that first interview or that hot date.

For her: We love Hors la Monde’s cult favorite Shiloh, (we wear it!). This is a chypre like no other; a citrusy-fresh, slightly herbal, and an unexpectedly deep, dark and mysterious fragrance.

For Him: Every young man we tested this on smelled amazing. What is it? It’s Anvers by Ulrich Lang, a classic with a twist – citrus and mint, woods and guava and leather and sesame.

Perhaps no other flower used in perfumery has been so maligned. Violets? Probably your first thought is of a “˜shrinking violet’; someone who ducks for cover, tongue twisted and shy. Violet flowers are often hidden between their leaves, but no one is quite certain when this phrase became part of our vernacular. According to most contemporary meanings of flowers, violets are symbols of modesty and chastity.

Let’s take a look at some facts about this enigmatic blossom whose natural essence is so difficult to distill that it is often substituted or reinforced with synthetics.
- Violets are actually robust survivors
- Violets are the aristocrats of plants.
- The Ancient Greeks considered the Violet a symbol of fertility and love, and was used in love potions”¦nothing innocent there

- Shrinking Violet, (the comic book character from DC Comics) holds her own with the big boys battling nasty villains.

Fresh: Verte Violette by L’Artisan Parfumeur

Moist and fresh green accords paired with delicately sweet violet, is the perfect violet for the springtime bride. There’s cool freshness unlike any violet scent we tested and it has wonderful sillage. Only available in L’Artisan Parfumeur stand alone shops or online at www.lartisanparfumeur.com. For the groom, we like Gucci Fragrance Pour Homme II Eau de Toilette with notes violet leaves and black tea.

Woody: Serge Lutens Bois de Violette and Cuir Amethyste by Armani Privé

For the perfect blend of dark woods and sweet violet, RUN, CAB, JET to Bergdorf Goodman, where you will find Bois de Violette by Christopher Sheldrake for Serge Lutens (an export fragrance previously unavailable in the USA and now a BG exclusive). Mesmerizing.

Play parfumeur at the Memoire Liquide Boutique at Henri Bendel and create a memorable scent for your new spouse from 160 base scents, each of which can be worn singly, or mixed in infinite combinations.

Armani Privé created Cuir Améthyste as a tribute to three raw materials — violet, birch, and patchouli. This is the perfect violet fragrance for the bride that loves earthy sensuous scents. The fragrance is contained in the signature Armani Privé bottle of Kotibe wood, decorated with a stopper inspired by the semi-precious stone— amethyst— long associated with creativity and psychic power; two elements that come in handy in any marriage”¦ Cuir Améthyste is described as unisex but after trying the scent on a few men, we think it’s decisively feminine. Editor’s Note: we do not detect any “˜cuir’ (leather) accords.

Available at Saks Fifth Avenue and www.giorgioarmanibeauty.com.

For the groom, we recommend Ralph Lauren’s Romance Men Silver, a woody scent with notes of Violet, Mate, Nutmeg, Suede Musk Accord, Guaicwood, and Driftwood.

Sexy: Marie Antoinette Violette

Simply the best violet fragrance I have ever spritzed is Marie Antoinette Violette; perfect for a bride who doesn’t check her sensuality at the church or synagogue doors. Violet flowers and leaves are blended with myrrh, frankincense and amber. What sounds like a dichotomous blend is truly swoon worthy. If you think you don’t like violets, this will change your mind. It changed mine. The scent is one of the many rare and private reserve fragrances that can be found at The Perfume House in Portland, Oregon. Many hard to find fragrances can be found online at www.theperfumehouse.com. For more information on the “˜private reserve fragrances’, email cttsefalas@theperfumehouse.com and mention Beauty News.

For the groom, we recommend Kiton ‘Black’ Eau de Toilette Spray with notes of violet and amber.

Floral/Powdery: Penhaligon’s Violetta and Santa Maria Novella Violet

Penhaligon’s Violetta is my mom’s favorite fragrance and she has been happily married to my dad for 52 years. It is a soliflores fragrance where the violet note is very prominent, supported by geranium, woods and musk. On most women we tested it has a floral/powdery drydown, and great sillage. It is a romantic scent, nostalgic and the most identifiably violet. Available at www.penhaligons.com.

Santa Maria Novella Violet is cologne for women, much lighter than Penhaligon’s, more subtle and less sweet. Yet just as nostalgic; it reminds me of the smell and taste of the addicting Choward’s Violet Mints.

Available at www.lafcony.com

For the groom, Creed’s Green Irish Tweed is a wonderful complement to both these scents, with its crisp and clean notes of bergamot and violet leaves.

Fruity/Floral: Tom Ford Black Violet and Robert Piguet Visa

Tom Ford’s darkling Black Violet is more pulpy and woody than sweet violet. Yet, the odd combination of citrus and violet makes this my favorite in the Tom Ford Private Blend line. Its not sugary, in fact it’s raw and bold, making this a perfect scent for both bride and groom “¦ who take want to take a walk on the wild side of the aisle. Available at www.bergddorfgoodman.com.

Robert Piguet Visa

Although Marie Antoinette Violette was a lovely surprise, violet is not my favorite note. For those whose favorite notes and accords include rose, vetiver, benzoin, amber, and leather accords, this one’s for you. Visa was reformulated from the original, last year by the new owners of Piguet’s classic, vintage scents. The updated Visa is thoroughly luscious and I think more rounded than the original; opening with notes of white peach, pear, violet leaves, bergamot and yellow mandarin essences. Heart notes include rich ylang essence mingled with rose, immortelle and orange flower absolutes. Sandalwood, vetiver, moss, vanilla beans, benzoin and a gourmand leathery accord compose the drydown. The violet is barely there, but lends distinctiveness to the composition. I am not a bride to be, but if I was, this would be my choice””silky glamour in a bottle.

Keep your groom under lock and key until the ring is securely on your finger, because we have tested Piguet’s reissued Cravache on several men and find it “˜simply irresistible’.

Both Visa and Cravache are available at www.robertpiguetparfums.com and at Henri Bendel.

Romano Ricci is one of niche fragrances’ most attractive new faces. He is the owner of Juliette Has a Gun, a brand that sounds more like the name of an alternative rock band than a perfume company. Romano is a RICCI; the grandson of perfumer Robert Ricci, and the great grandson of the fashion icon Madame Nina Ricci. Before founding his new company (which launched at Henri Bendel in 2007), Romano Ricci was a racecar driver, had a bad boy reputation as a playboy and someone who was always ready to party. Yet, he studied fragrance for over five years at an obscure company who did not recognize his last name. Now Romano is developing a master plan for his new wave brand.

Of course we all want to know why he named his company after a gun toting woman, but I suspect she is the modern day incarnation of Shakespeare’s Juliet, who would shoot any Montague that came between her and her man.

BN: Congratulations on the success of your two fragrances Lady Vengeance and Miss Charming. Is there any significance that your two inaugural scents are rose based?
RR: I am a lover of symbols, like my Juliette, rose is a flower you have to handle with care”¦ or it can hurt a little…Olfcatively, it was also a flower which I thought had a good potential for expressing what I wanted to say with my fragrances.

BN: Romano growing up a Ricci. What is your first fragrance memory?
RR: Having lived a 100 meters from the Nina Ricci factory all my childhood, my fist fragrance memory was a mix all the perfumes that were manufactured there! It is a very special smell”¦indescribable (too many notesJ), and incredibly powerful!

I have also a very strong memory about my grandfather’s perfume. I remember him, his house, his clothes smelled Signoricci. It was a sensual and masculine fragrance. To my point of view, one of the best male fragrance ever.

BN: The large PR machines of the fragrance industry are waking up to the fact that they are not connecting with the many women and men that they are targeting. Do you see an awakening among consumers that fragrance is an Art, more than toploading and a famous face in an ad? Will consumers DEMAND quality?
RR: I think perfumery in the fifties was Real perfumery, very qualitative, creative, and urbane at the same time. Today, it is a very different. It has become a gigantic business, with worldwide companies aiming for maximum profit. I am not against evolution but I have to say, it sometimes a bit sad to see great names on that kind of products. But on the other side it is good, because it leaves some room for a brand like Juliette.

BN: You were a race car driver and also someone who enjoys the night life. When did you say, “OK, now I am ready to be a serious perfumer”. What and when was the turning point?
RR: It comes very naturally when you run a company. You simply put your energy into something else.

BN: You have been in the media and you are generating plenty of buzz. Tell us something we don’t know about Romano Ricci, something we have not read elsewhere.
RR: I am not the dandy the press talks about. I am romantic and much more passionate than the image of me they portray.

BN: You must be fearless to be a race car driver. There must be something you are afraid of, what is it?
RR: I am frightened of heights. Even on chair!

BN: What can we look forward from you in 2008?
RR: The “˜third episode’ of Juliette, a little fashion collection that I am drawing with my sister, and many other ideas I want to concretize.

Juliette Has a Gun is available at Henri Bendel and at www.luckyscent.com

Help dad find his groove with a new cologne. Choose one that really describes his personality, and it’s sure to be a hit.

The Entrepreneurial Dad: Ineke’s Derring Do

The Urban Dad: Diesel Fuel For Life Pour Homme Gift Set

The Fashionisto Dad: Michael Kors Men’s Eau de Toilette

The Sportsman Dad: Polo Explorer Eau de Toilette Spray

The Jetsetter Dad: Acqua di Parma Mirto di Panarea Eau de Toilette Natural Spray

Dad Lives in the East Village: Escentric Molecule02

Mandy Aftel, Founder of the Artisan Natural Perfumer’s Guild

Long before we knew we were leaving carbon footprints, and back in the days when drinking bottled water was tres chic, there was Mandy Aftel; owner and founder of Aftelier , the founder of the Artisan Natural Perfumers Guild creating fragrances that used only 100% natural ingredients. Most perfumers and corporations eschewed this methodology; natural and organic materials were expensive and volatile. The difficulties of obtaining only the finest ingredients, distilling essences and creating natural fragrances were not deterrents to Aftel’s mission ““ to disprove the popular belief that natural fragrances could never achieve the status of ‘fine fragrance’ which used synthetics in their composition. Aftel founded Aftelier, her own company and pioneered the way for the dozens of new fragrances popping up, hyping that their scents are greener and cleaner.

Today, many of these companies are touting their organic fragrances, claiming that they are certified by this organization or that, but few can stand up to the quality of Aftelier fragrances.

Formerly a psychotherapist and currently an author of six books, Aftel began her interest in perfumery just over ten years ago. She was researching the area for her next novel, where the main character was a perfumer. She recognized she had found her calling and started a revolution that we now take for granted as part of our environmentally conscious culture. In fact, one of the most interesting facts about Ms. Aftel’s many accomplishments is that she is working outside parfumery– in conjunction with large corporations such as Glaxco-Smith and with Clean Well to develop “˜green’ scents for consumer products.

BN: Mandy, you are an accomplished writer, and teacher and of course an award winning perfumer”¦ when you think of MANDY AFTEL, who is she?
MA: I don’t really think of “˜Mandy Aftel.’ I am very focused on my work and don’t really see myself from the outside. From the inside, I just feel so fortunate to be able to do the work I love ““ working with gorgeous essences and creating new fragrances.

BN: You have been called the “˜Alice Waters’ of natural perfumes. You were there at the beginning when organic fragrances and oils were for “˜hippies’ and “˜treehuggers’. How do you feel years later, when everyone is plugging “˜green’?
MA: I couldn’t believe my good fortune at literally “˜following my nose’ and stumbling into natural perfume. At first I fell in love with the old perfume books ““ ones from the turn of the last century ““ and immediately after that I fell in love with the voluptuous, complicated, fecal-floral extraordinary natural essences. I wanted to write a novel about a perfumer and became one instead. I am very pleased that people are interested in natural essences. There is pleasure in knowing that the scents are derived from particular plants and places ““ that they came from the earth. Much of what is described as natural is of course synthetic, but, as I learned in my research, that dishonesty has been going on for almost a hundred years, so it is nothing new. I genuinely believe that perfume buyers are interested in the beauty, authenticity, quality and complexity of natural essences and are becoming more educated about what they put on their body.

BN Can you define Natural Perfumery?
MA: A natural perfume is made only from pure and natural aromatics including essential oils, absolutes, concretes, CO2 extracts and resins. Natural Perfume can be considered art when constructed correctly, but it always made by hand.

BN: For you Natural Perfumery has been your path for over a decade. What do you think about the major fragrance houses and manufacturers’ marketing tactics that are claiming to be all natural, organic, etc.?
MA: I understand that most of the time their motivation has to do purely with maximizing profit without concern for the integrity of their ingredients and I think this is beginning to catch up with the perfume industry at large. I like that more attention is being brought to naturals and that their inherent virtues are being extolled, but not all manufacturers are actually using them. I would wish for more honesty in the perfume industry. The better educated consumers are, the more they will ask for their perfumes to be created with imagination from better quality ingredients.

BN: Are there global or government standards in place that qualify a fragrance to be considered natural or organic. Is their a difference between natural and organic? I think many of us are really confused by some of the new terms we are hearing.
MA: This is a very confused and confusing issue. Everyone is jumping on the organic and natural bandwagon. I use fair trade ingredients — along with organic and wild-harvested whenever possible.

BN: I have tried other natural perfumes and find they often turn sour or bitter as they drydown. Why is this?
MA: Natural perfumes that turn sour and bitter as they drydown are poorly constructed. Just because someone works with natural essences doesn’t mean that they can create a good perfume. One of the first things I say to my students is that “you cannot throw a bunch of beautiful natural essences into a beaker and call that a perfume.” First and foremost in working with natural essences is a thorough understanding of structure. The cornerstone of fragrance construction is around top, middle, and base notes. This cannot be modified and has to do with the amount of time an essence is perceptible on a scent strip. Top notes last ½ hour, middle notes 2 hours, and base notes up to a few days. A perfume is an art form that evolves in time.

BN: I want to tell you and our readers, your scent Tango by Atelier actually brings tears to my eyes. It is one of Beauty News and Sniffapalooza’s Best Scents of 2007. We, like many well respected ‘noses’ and ‘perfumistas’ consider it a masterpiece. What inspired you to create this complex and haunting fragrance?
MA: Thank you so much for your kind words and I am so proud of being a recipient of this award. Tango was very very hard to create. I had to work on it for a long time and go through many versions until everything was right about it. It was built around choya, blond tobacco and coffee along with champaca absolute and wild sweet orange. I wanted the perfume to be like a night of naughty pleasures: dancing, drinking, smoking, coffee and sex. Choya is the smell of burst seashells ““ very intense, smoky and sultry, blond tobacco is warm, slightly sweet and smells like a cigarette or cigar before it is lit. Together they formed the base of the perfume ““ sweet, musky, and heavy. Champaca is rich and complicated fecal floral but also sweet and the coffee added a dirty edge to that voluptuousness. My wild sweet orange from the Dominican Republic is a very sophisticated high-register orange that just lifted the heaviness and added a fresh and wild aspect to the citrus at the top.

BN: Parfum Prive is your latest scent and quite a departure from the collection. What is the story behind its creation?
MA: Someone had some old ambergris that they were willing to sell to me. Ambergris is possibly the most beautiful smell in the world and the rarest. I was so thrilled to be able to work with it that I created an accord of osmanthus flower, ambrette seed and orange flower absolute to build the perfume around. The rest of the formulation was in service of these four “break-the-bank” essences. I wanted something that was simply beautiful with a spiraling quality to it.

BN: Are you working on a new fragrance now?
MA: I am working on a new perfume which will be called Cassis. I am challenged by the fact that all fruit essences are synthetic and it is extremely difficult to create a fruity perfume with all naturals. I want it to be light, buoyant and sophisticated

BN: There is another side to your business that is directed towards the natural food industry and natural food enthusiasts. Briefly can you tell us about your Chef’s Essences and who purchases them?
MA: My Chef’s Essences are for use in cooking and they are sourced from all over the world. I take a great pleasure in sourcing my essences and will tend to sample at least five to ten versions of an oil before I am satisfied that I have found the one with the best odor profile and quality. Much like a good cook, I believe the final creation ““ be it food or perfume ““ can only be as good as the quality of the materials that it was created from. For example, my fresh ginger is a revelation ““ all ginger essential oils come from the dried root but this ginger is distilled from the wet rhizomes and has a light, citrus spicy aroma and tastes like the freshly grated ginger. Many restaurants, cookbook authors and chefs buy my oils: Nobu and Blue Hill in New York, The French Laundry, Coi, and Bouchon in California, Bill Yosses, the pastry chef in The White House, Harold McGee, author of “On Food and Cooking,” and Rose Levy Beranbaum of “The Cake Bible.”

BN: Does music, art, literature play a role in your creative process? If so, who are your muses?
MA: I always create perfumes with music on. Many people do not know this but my very first book was a biography about Brian Jones of the Rolling Stones. My muses are Bob Dylan, Leonard Cohen and Lucinda Williams. All three of them focus on affairs of the heart – love’s ecstasies and difficulties. For me, they often capture in a lyric some ephemera of a sensual and feeling-full life. They create beauty from these fleeting moments. This is my inspiration.

Mandy Aftel will be holding a Natural Perfume Workshop at Henri Bendel in New York City on May 8th. Create your own unique, artisan perfume using Mandy’s supply of all natural, beautiful essences from around the world materials to create your personal natural perfume . Your $150 reservation fee includes all materials and one of Mandy’s 2ml mini perfumes of your choosing. Space is limited. To confirm your spot, or to learn more, please call 1.212.904.7990.

Aftelier fragrances and Chef’s Essences are available at www.aftelier.com. Aftelier fragrances are also available at Henri Bendel, NY. Mandy Aftel’s books can be purchased on www.amazon.com.

May “˜flowers’ with new fragrances from a few of our favorite niche and fine fragrance perfumeries.

I am fascinated by an unassuming Swiss perfumer who “˜paints’ fragrances at his lab in Zurich. His name is Andy Tauer and if you are not familiar with his scents, they are among the most beautiful fragrances I have encountered this year. (Rêverie Au Jardin is swoon-worthy).

Bienvenue Incense Rose, Tauer’s latest fragrance; a hypnotic contrast of fiery frankincense and sweet rose. Citrus notes and a hint of cardamom lend the rose a ripe, spicy quality; orris brightens the woody and balsamic notes of cedar, vetiver, patchouli, myrrh and labdanum— rich and dark. However, the star note of the composition is the smoldering, sensual frankincense. Incense Rose is for all lovers of incense fragrances and for men and women who gravitate to sumptuous, resinous blends.

Available at www.luckyscent.com and www.aedes.com.

The House of Hermès has declared 2008, “˜The Year of India’ and Hermès’ master perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena uses as India to inspire his latest fragrance Un Jardin après le Mousson, the third scent of the ‘Un Jardin’ trilogy.

Un Jardin après le Mousson captures and bottles a cyclical event of nature—a monsoon — in Kerula, India. Mr. Ellena seeks to evoke the smells of the earth, water and spices, après le deluge. Un Jardin après le Mousson has his signature translucence and a memorable sillage.

Will this be a commercial success? I don’t think everyone will find the smell of wet spices and lily either sexy or break-through. But there will be those, like myself, who understand that in this fragrance is equipoise; an Ayurvedic Doshic balance; the elements of moist earth as represented by notes of earthy green vetiver (representing Kapha), fiery spices such as cardamom, coriander, and pepper (representing Pitta) and Kahili ginger (representing Vata) brings to my mind the sacred Hindi chant ‘om’; the one eternal sound of which all that exists is but the development. Perhaps, Un Jardin après le Mousson is the olfactory equivalent to the duality of om; what is abstract yet tangible, fleeting but enduring.

The fragrance, bath and body collection will be available May 5, 2008 at www.hermes.com.

I have worn one Chanel fragrance for years– Cristalle). As much as my nose appreciates the artistry and superb structure of the iconic No.5, No.19 and Coco Mademoiselle) my chemistry does not like synthetic floral aldehydes. All has changed with the introduction of Sycomore, the newest addition to “Les Exclusifs” by Chanel”, eleven fragrances that re-create and preserve Mademoiselle Coco Chanel’s legacy, using historic numbers, addresses and symbols. Sycomore is a linear fragrance with an idea so simple that is particularly complex; create the perfect Vetiver fragrance. And it is”¦ the result of a magical distillation by Chanel’s noseJaques Polge, who created the entire Les Exclusifs collection. On my skin it isn’t pungent or too green, rather the fragrance is soft woods– warm sensuous and only slightly earthy. There are no florals, no synthetic aldehydes. It is perhaps the most exceptional Vetiver fragrance I have tried. Merci”¦beaucoup.

Sycomore and Les Exclusifs by Chanel are available at Bergdorf Goodman. Editor’s Note: Joseph Covington, a Chanel Les Exclusifs specialist at BG, is particularly knowledgable and can be contacted at 212-872-2667, for a fragrance consultation

Although we did not “˜plant’ Diabolo, by Parfums de Rosine, a light rose chypre, in our fragrance rose garden, it’s both new and noteworthy. At the heart of the perfume is a true absolute of rose, ushered in by mint; there is a boozy quality to this rose that is enhanced by the base note of ambergris.

Available at Barneys NY in May.

The two latest fragrances by Jo Malone pay tribute to the complex rituals of morning and nocturnal Japanese incense ceremonies. Individually each is as well constructed and as appealling as our favorites Lime Basil Mandarin andPomegranate Noir.

Lotus Blossom & Water Lily and Dark Amber & Ginger Lily are very different from any other fragrances by Jo Malone; Lotus Blossom & Water Lily opens with muskiness and fruity creaminess. The water lily note is transformed by its seamless blending into Lotus blossom, so you do not have an overtly floral fragrance. Incense and woody note emerges in a near perfect dry-down and suggests the scent of skin. Dark Amber & Ginger Lily opens with an effervescence of ginger, reminiscent of ginger ale, which is quickly replaced by deeply beautiful resin and incense notes, with a amber-woody drydown.

Although the Company suggests you layer them, I prefer not to. Each fragrance is lovely and stands on its own, which is how I recommend you wear them— as individual scents.

Available at Bergdorf Goodman and www.jomalone.com

From the creative mind of Isabelle Masson Mandonnaud, one of the founders behind the original Sephora who started her own fragrance company crazylilebellule and the poppies in 1995, launches three distinct fragrances that comprise a collection named L’Olfactives. Each fragrance celebrates their “˜birthdates’, i.e. the 122nd day of 2006, the 125th day of 2006 and the 129th day of 2006-all Geminis born in May. L’Olfactive 122 is bright and fruity with pink grapefruit and peony, L’Olfactive 125 is redolent with rose, jasmine and ylang ylang with a glowing apricot top note, and our favorite, L’Olfactive 129 is chic and sophisticated, a blend of elemi pepper and honey; velvet vanilla, amber and patchouli.

Available at www.luckyscent.com

From niche perfumeur Mona di Orio debuts Amyitis, a fragrance inspired by the Hanging Gardens of Babylon, which were created for Queen Amyitis. This is a green scent, with fragrance notes capsicum, green leaves, iris, violet, gaiac wood, cedar, and moss.. Even though it’s not listed as an ingredient, it smells of cucumber. It is a departure from her other scents as it is an exploration of ‘freshness’, with only a nod to the exotic.

Amyitis is available at Bergdorf Goodman and online at www.aedes.com

(With Global Fragrance Expert – Marian Bendeth)

See a rose is still a rose
Baby, girl, you’re still a flower
He can’t lead you and then take you
Make you and then break you
Darling, you hold the power
-Lyrics by Aretha Franklin

It was a snowy day in January in both New York City and Toronto, when my friend Marian Bendeth, Global Fragrance Expert and owner of Toronto-based consulting company “Sixth Scents” and I began talking about her English rose garden, which she dearly missed”¦buried under five feet of snow. I tried to comfort her, but since I can’t even grow a chia pet, it was of no use. She told me how much she love the scent of roses; one of her great joys is the view of her next door neighbor’s the driveway , which in June is a visual and olafactory delight of a flood of roses; some are full-bodied and peppery, some are whisper-light and some are creamy.

Which got me thinking; the fragrance of roses do not require balmy May weather to evoke memories and emotions. We could create our own perfumed rose gardens in the chill of winter, a dozen perfect rose fragrances each”¦and no gardening skills required.

Marian Bendeth, Global Fragrance Expert

I invited Marian Bendeth to plant the seeds of knowledge with BN readers who may not know everything there is to know about roses and rose fragrances. Her credentials are impressive; as a fragrance expert, she has worked with over a 1,000+ prestige and niche fragrances, the Fragrance Industry, the Global Media, Fragrance Retailers and Universities and Colleges as well as the general public:

“The old adage, “stop and smell the roses” has more literal meaning than prose”.

The anthropological symbolism of roses in cultures around the globe is steeped in mysticism, passion, romance and the life force that reflects the beauty in nature.

Turkish rose, Egyptian rose, and basket of Bulgarian roses

There are over 118 species of rose oils available to modern perfumers, each with very particular nuances such as notes of: warmed tea, exotic spices, sweet sugar, warm fruity notes and honeyed accents. Each species glove a fine perfume and round out and rosy up what would otherwise be a bland accord.

Perfumers still struggle to capture the true essence of roses with molecules. Some are so unique, they cannot be reproduced to perfection with synthetics and some essential notes such as the Centifolia Rose from Grasse or Bulgarian Rose can be costly to cultivate and manufacture.

Many harvests are born as hybrids, where two plants from different parts of the world are cultivated over extended periods of time on land with generous healthy soils, rainfall and sun exposure. Others have been cultivated in the same spot for centuries, bringing a unique personality and headiness to perfume blends.

There is a rose for every kind of taste, every kind of personality, every kind of environment. From Cleopatra to the Corporate boardroom, the rose is the ultimate gift and symbol of perfection.

My selection reflects “The Rose as the Diva”, surrounded by a supporting cast of other essences. My selections are mostly current fragrances, vintage fragrances and a few niche, whilst Michelyn favors cutting edge niche with a nod to their classic inspirations.

There is a fascinating mixture of a traditional horticultural garden meets valley roses with a twist here. I think a lovely and exciting combination.

When I was invited to share my dozen perfect rose-based scents, my nose floated to a thousand exquisite perfumed petals, but these bouquets spoke the loudest to my heart.”

- Marian Bendeth

1. Paris -Yves St. Laurent, Available at www.neimanmarcus.com
2. Rossy de Palma Eau de protection – Etat Libre d’Orange, Available at Henri Bendel
3. Lipstick Rose – Frederic Malle, Available at www.barneys.com
4. Rose Ikebana РHerm̬s Hermessence, Available at Herm̬s Boutiques
5. Elizabethan Rose – Penhaligon’s, Available at www.penhaligons.com
6. White Rose – Floris, Available at www.lusciouscargo.com

7. Rumeur 2 Rose – Lanvin, Available at www.saksfifthavenue.com
8. Joy – Jean Patou, Available at www.nordstroms.com
9. Lady Vengeance ““ Juliette has a Gun, Available at www.luckyscent.com
10. Recolte Harvest 2007 Very Irrésistible – Givenchy, Available at www.nordstoms.com
11. Soir du Lune – Sisley, Available at www.neimanmarcus.com
12. Chamade – Guerlain, Available at the Guerlain Boutique at Bergdorf Goodman

Michelyn’s perfect dozen represents two extremes; tea /citrus or dark/spicy.

1. Rose Barbare – by Guerlain, Available at the Guerlain Boutique Bergdorf Goodman
2. Paris – by YSL, Available at www.saksfifthavenue.com
3. Rossy de Palma Eau De Protection – by Etat Libre d’Orange, Available at Henri Bendel
4. Liaisons Dangerouses – by Kilian, Available at Bergdorf Goodman
5. Sa majeste de rose – by Serge Lutens, Available at www.barneys.com
6. Bulagare de The Rose – by CREED, Available at Bergdorf Goodman

7. Le Sirenuse Paestum Rose – Eau d’Italie, Available at www.clydesonmadison.com
8. Une Rose – by Frederic Malle, Available at www.barneys.com
9. Un mille et un rose Рby Lanc̫me collection, Available at www.saksfifthavenue.com
10. Tea/Rose – CB I hate perfume, Available at www.cbihateperfume.com
11. Miele Rosa – i profumi di fiorenzi, Available at www.beautyhabit.com
12. Le Labo Rose 31 – Le Labo, Available at www.barneys.com

***Honorable mention: Drole de Rose – L’Artisan Parfumeur
Available at www.neimanmarcus.com

Marian Bendeth’s Website: web.mac.com/sixthscents
To Contact Marian Bendeth: SixthSen@aol.com

Editor’s Note: Marian Bendeth and Grant Osbourne of www.basenotes.net , are the recipients of the Best Media Editorial Award for two combined articles by a Media Judging Panel at the Canadian Fragrance Awards, Thursday, April 24, 2008.

They’re chic, intelligent, always in motion, and most important: they’re loving mothers.

Can Cynthia Rowley do any more in a day? Ms. Rowley is an innovative fashion and accessories designer, home and entertainment expert (her line Swell is fabulous), author, reality show judge (loved her on Project Runway), AND will appropriately launch her first collection of fragrances for Avon on Mother’s Day.

One of media’s movers and shakers, Lesley Jane Seymour is a groundbreaking Editor in Chief of magazines that have motivated millions of women –from teens to women 40s+. Lesley Jane is the former Editor in Chief of YM, Redbook, and Marie Claire and now brings her talents as Editor-in-Chief of More, which recently ranked #5 on Adweek’s Hot List.

Both of these dynamic women attribute a key ingredient to their professional success is motherhood. Ms. Rowley and Ms. Seymour both have two children, prefers stilettos to sneakers, and balance a hyper-drive professional life with quality family time. How do they do it? They share their secrets and personal frustrations and joys in this Beauty News exclusive look at two women who are both two metro ‘hot’ metro mamas.

Lesley Jane Seymour, Editor in Chief of More magazine

BN: Would you be where you are today without being a mom?
LJS: Being a mom means I can do any high-powered job, period. Without the support system from my family (even if my daughter is constantly berating me as a typical 12 year old), I wouldn’t be where I am now, since I rely on them for love and care. The job is a job. A great one, but having my true loves in my life at home””my kids and husband””means I can keep the job where it belongs, in its place.

BN: You have been at the helm of a teen magazine, a young women’s fashion magazine, a magazine for young moms and are now you are spearheading a magazine targeted to women over forty. Is this path parallel to your own life stages?
LJS: My career has moved from talking to teens (I even wrote a book for them: I Wish My Parents Understood) to young moms when I was one, and now to women over 40 (I’m one!). It’s nice to progress with your age and interests. For More, I can roll out of bed and have ideas. I can go to lunch with a friend and get a spin on an article. It’s really delicious when your life and your work are so in sync.

BN: The media has gone “˜bump’ crazy. So much hype and focus on celebrities and their babies. What’s your take?
LJS: Unfortunately being a mom has become just a pop thing in the media right now. You see that with sad cases like Britney and Jamie Lyn Spears: children having children. She wasn’t ready to be a mom but she did because it was “˜the thing’. However, I do think it’s nice that being a mom is no longer stigmatized, as it was when I worked at a very high fashion book years ago and an editor kept her baby in her office drawer ““ there was no maternity leave back then. So it’s a good thing to have kids, but the pop culture is glamorizing motherhood and women who aren’t prepared to have children are doing so. It’s the trophy kid.

BN: Off topic, your favorite beauty product?
LJS: Lip Gloss. I must own 2000! I still feel like I don’t have just the right color.

BN: If you EVER have two hours of alone time, what do you do?
LJS: Two hours of alone time? I go shopping at Bergdorf Goodman! I love just to see what’s new. I don’t have to buy. Which is why I have to be alone, if I shop with my 12 year old she has to buy””something!

BN: Please share some tips with our metro moms to help them keep pace with family, friends and career.
LJS: You have to make time for yourself or you absolutely will not feel great or sexy. Children, family and the job do nothing but take”¦ take”¦ take. For me, it’s important to work out daily since being physically fit helps me to keep up.

Cynthia Rowley, the “˜Renaissance’ Mom

BN: Cynthia, with your demanding career, what is it about having children that makes you feel more confident, creative, and able to consistently deliver as you do?
CR: Being a mom requires being extra-patient, extra-organized and extra-inventive in order to balance everything. It makes you do more than you ever thought you could. It also means having love and joy infused into every part of your life. Motherhood definitely makes you more creative. I’ve thought, “If I can create this, I must be able to create so many other amazing things.”

BN: Congratulations on creating Flower and Petal for Avon. It’s launching Mother’s Day. The timing is certainly not accidental…
CR: My mom wore a certain fragrance on big occasions when I was a kid. She used to spritz a little on me before she went out for the night, and I always associated it with something special, even when I stayed home with the babysitter. I wanted to make something to share with my own daughters, and for other women to share with the little ones in their lives.

BN: Are you planning more fragrances?
CR: There may be more fragrances with Avon in my future”¦ (shhh!)

BN: Beauty must-have?
CR: In the morning, sunglasses are my best friend. I just throw them on and run the kids to school with no makeup. I have my makeup in a to-go case, and put it on whenever I get the chance. Sometimes it takes me all morning to get a full face of makeup on — but in the meantime, I have my sunglasses.

BN: If you have two hours of ‘alone time’, what would you do and where would it be?
CR: I never have “me” time — it’s always “we” time.

BN: As a Metro Mama, what are your tips for readers who are both moms and career women to help them stay confident, sexy, and successful — even if they barely have an hour for themselves?
CR: Whenever possible, try to include your kids in your busy life, including your job, errands and any other activities. The key to doing this successfully is making sure they’re getting something positive out of the experience in addition to getting to spend time with you. If your kids can visit you at work, great! I’m lucky enough that I have a work environment where my kids can come and visit, and it’s a space in which they can be creative. Sometimes, they work with me on projects””for example, my older daughter helped choose the notes in Petal. I think incorporating family into work is the way for modern, busy moms to keep everything balanced.

Flower and Petal by Cynthia Rowley will be available on www.avon.com for Mother’s Day.

You can walk the walk, talk the talk, but you are just a poseur until you smell like a billionaire. Are you listening Donald Trump?

Created in 1948, Cypres Musc was worn by none other than Greek shipping magnate and Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy’s second spouse, Aristotle Onassis. Mossy and woodsy, it oozes machismo and mucho money. English mint enhances the cypress accord, along with ambergris and musk.

Aristotle Onassis and CREED Cypres Musc

This fragrance is expensive; you may not have enough change left to buy a Vente Latte. No worries, one spritz of Cypress Musc and you’ll feel like the next Howard Schultz (founder of Starbucks), except you’ll make your first billion somewhere with much better weather.

Cyprus Musc is one of the seven Creed fragrances comprising the Private Collection. It is available in flacons of 8.4 ounces only at Bergdorf Goodman.

Mark Birley and Mark Birley for Men

Mark Birley for Men is the type of scent that brings to mind all that fascinates —scandal, adultery, money, royalty, yet somehow low key and subtle. Mark Birley, the legendary British entrepreneur, restaurateur, night club owner, men’s clubs and hotels (including Annabel’s and Harry’s Bar) Mark Birley passed away in 2007, but his jet set legacy lives on, fragrantly through this elegantly constructed cologne. Birley teamed up with Frederic Malle, one of the leading perfume experts in France and Pierre Bourdon, the father of contemporary men’s perfumery to create this cologne. Mr. Birley was not an easy man to please; it took 32 revisions to create the final fragrance; created using all natural ingredients, Mr. Birley must have driven his perfumers mad globe trotting to hunt for Bergamot from California, Orris from Florence, Vetyver from China and Cedar wood from Texas. Hopefully they flew first class.

Available at www.luckyscent.com

Sean “˜Diddy Combs and Unforgivable Black

Sean “˜Diddy’ Combs’ inaugural men’s fragrance Unforgivable was based on his personal relationship with scent. Combs wanted to take his next fragrance, Unforgivable Black, to a different place. Mustique? Bali? This scent is all out sexy; naked skin sexy. Asian pear, Cardamom, Seychelles Coco de Mer and a Coconut Rum Accord were added to the original juice to allow a tropical sensuality to emerge. Yet, the the elegance of the original scent is retained, so it is not “˜beachy’. Perhaps beluga caviar, after midnight, on the verenda? Unforgivable Black is being sold as a “˜collector’s’ edition during the month of April. Available at Macy’s West and Fine Department Stores.